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best garden seeds to buy Pollinator Wildflower Seeds for Healthy Ecosystems 12 Pack Pollinator Garden Seed CollectionCreate a vibrant pollinator paradise with our diverse wildflower seed blend! This carefully curated mix of native and naturalized annuals and perennials produces a stunning tapestry of colorful blooms that bees, butterflies, hummingbirds, and beneficial insects absolutely love. Perfect for creating natural wildflower meadows, filling bare spots in your garden, or transforming your lawn into a thriving ecosystem. Easy to grow, low maintenance once
Create a vibrant pollinator paradise with our diverse wildflower seed blend! This carefully curated mix of native and naturalized annuals and perennials produces a stunning tapestry of colorful blooms that bees, butterflies, hummingbirds, and beneficial insects absolutely love. Perfect for creating natural wildflower meadows, filling bare spots in your garden, or transforming your lawn into a thriving ecosystem. Easy to grow, low-maintenance once established, and provides season-long nectar and pollen for our essential pollinators.
What's in This Wildflower Blend:
- Black-Eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta)
- Purple Coneflowers (Echinacea purpurea)
- Blanket Flowers (Gaillardia)
- Cornflowers/Bachelor's Buttons (Centaurea cyanus)
- California Poppies (Eschscholzia californica)
- Plains Coreopsis (Coreopsis tinctoria)
- Scarlet Flax (Linum grandiflorum)
- Annual Baby's Breath (Gypsophila elegans)
- Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus)
- Sweet Alyssum (Lobularia maritima)
- Shasta Daisies (Leucanthemum)
- Crimson Clover (Trifolium incarnatum)
Annuals for Immediate Impact:
- Bloom quickly (often within 6-8 weeks)
- Provide vibrant color the first year
- Fill in gaps while perennials establish
- Self-seed for continuous blooms year after year
- Examples: Cosmos, cornflowers, poppies, scarlet flax
Perennials for Long-Term Investment:
- Establish strong root systems first year
- Return bigger and better each year
- Require minimal maintenance once established
- Provide consistent food source for pollinators
- Examples: Purple coneflowers, black-eyed Susans, blanket flowers
Season-Long Blooms:
- Different varieties bloom at different times
- Continuous nectar and pollen from spring through frost
- Provides reliable food source when pollinators need it most
- Extends the beauty of your garden for months
Maximum Pollinator Support:
- Diverse flower shapes attract different pollinator species
- Tubular flowers for hummingbirds and long-tongued bees
- Open, daisy-like flowers for butterflies
- Clustered blooms for short-tongued bees
- Creates complete ecosystem for beneficial insects
Perfect For: Pollinator gardens, wildflower meadows, naturalized areas, erosion control, hillside plantings, lawn alternatives, no-mow zones, cottage gardens, cutting gardens, prairie restoration, wildlife gardens, sustainable landscaping, teaching kids about ecosystems, Earth Day projects, bee-friendly yards.
Why Pollinators Need Our Help:
The Pollinator Crisis:
- Bee populations have declined by 30-50% in recent decades
- Monarch butterflies have decreased by 90% since the 1990s
- Habitat loss is the #1 threat to pollinator survival
- Pesticide use and climate change compound the problem
- One-third of our food supply depends on pollinators
Your Garden Makes a Difference:
- Provides vital nectar and pollen when wild spaces disappear
- Creates safe nesting and overwintering habitat
- Supports entire ecosystems (pollinators feed birds and other wildlife)
- Helps reverse dangerous population declines
- Connects fragmented habitats through "pollinator corridors"
Growing Your Wildflower Meadow:
Best Planting Methods:
- Direct sow outdoors in early spring after last frost or in fall
- Prepare soil by removing weeds and loosening top 2-3 inches
- Mix tiny seeds with sand for easier, more even distribution
- Broadcast seeds over prepared area
- Lightly rake to ensure seed-to-soil contact
- Keep moist until germination (usually 7-21 days)
- Thin if overcrowded once seedlings are 2-3 inches tall
Growing Tips:
- Most varieties prefer full sun (6+ hours daily)
- Well-drained soil, tolerates poor to average fertility
- Water regularly until established (4-6 weeks)
- Drought-tolerant once established
- No fertilizer needed (encourages lush leaves over flowers)
- USDA hardiness zones 1-12 (varies by individual species)
First Year Expectations:
- Annuals will bloom first season (6-8 weeks from sowing)
- Perennials focus on root development, may not bloom until year 2
- Don't be discouraged! Perennials are building strength for spectacular future shows
- Keep area watered and weed-free first season
- Height varies by variety (typically 12-36 inches)
Maintenance for Years of Beauty:
- Cut back once annually in late winter/early spring
- Leave seed heads for birds through winter
- Allow some plants to self-seed for continuous blooms
- Deadhead annuals to extend blooming period
- No fertilizing needed
- Water only during severe drought
Coverage:
- One packet typically covers 25-100 square feet (varies by seed count)
- For larger areas, calculate: 1 oz per 150-200 square feet
- Better to overseed than underseed for full, lush meadow
- Mix well with sand or sawdust for even distribution
Perfect Planting Locations:
- Sunny slopes and hillsides (helps prevent erosion)
- Edges of property or along fences
- Around mailboxes or lamp posts
- Replacing unused lawn areas
- Between vegetable garden rows
- School gardens and public spaces
- Alongside driveways and walkways
Wildlife Benefits Beyond Pollinators:
- Seed heads feed songbirds through winter
- Dense growth provides shelter for beneficial insects
- Attracts ladybugs and lacewings (natural pest control)
- Creates habitat for ground-nesting bees
- Supports complete food web
Low-Maintenance Beauty:
- Once established, requires minimal care
- No mowing, fertilizing, or intensive watering
- Tolerates poor soil conditions
- Adapts to various climates and conditions
- More resilient to drought and heat than traditional lawns
- Saves time, money, and resources
Cutting Garden Bonus:
- Many varieties make excellent cut flowers
- Bring armfuls of blooms indoors all summer
- Long-lasting in vases (especially black-eyed Susans and coneflowers)
- Creates instant country cottage charm
Educational Value:
- Perfect for teaching kids about plant life cycles
- Observe pollinators visiting flowers
- Learn about native plants and ecosystems
- Understand food webs and biodiversity
- Hands-on environmental stewardship
Storage Instructions: Store seeds in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and high humidity. Ideal storage temperature is between 32-41°F. Properly stored seeds remain viable for 2-3 years.
Gift-Ready Packaging: Beautiful seed packet makes a perfect gift for nature lovers, gardeners, eco-conscious friends, teachers, Earth Day, Mother's Day, housewarming gifts, or anyone passionate about supporting pollinators and creating sustainable landscapes.
Create an Even Bigger Impact: Pair with our Flower Seed Collection (6-pack) for complementary blooms, try our Pollinator Garden Seed Collection (12-pack) for maximum diversity, or browse our complete Garden Seeds Collection for additional varieties.
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4.5 ★★★★★
Based on 29 reviews
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Product Reviews
★★★★★ 5
Excellent trilogy. This is book 2
Format: Paperback
Bob Monroe is an OG OBE G. Love this trilogy. If you can read, read this
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Reviewed in the United States on August 25, 2025
★★★★★ 5
Great (excellent) details for the date written
Format: Paperback
NOTE: I toned this version down in 2021 – I was in a bad place when I wrote the original and there were some hostile and entirely inaccurate personal remarks in it.
A few tables/charts with a wealth of information have tiny text but most of this was easy enough to read. The photos are poorly produced (at least in the paperback version I reviewed), which is sad given they would be so handy otherwise.
This is a classic post-war treatise on the weapons used for ground warfare during World War II by the U.S. Army and as such the Marines. It was first published around 1947 when the war was fresh and doubtlessly numerous technical details were still classified. It was written by a man intimately involved in many design projects. The coverage pretty much explains the breadth.
Examples of use are included for some weapons and detailed tables of data for many. He explains references to the "long primer" for the 76-mm gun and the 81-mm mortar T1 extension tube. I am happy to have bought it for that and numerous other details.
One thing I missed when I first wrote the original rambling, a bit over the top review back in September 2015 was that the 57mm M1 antitank gun is not mentioned even though it was a key component of Infantry weaponry in 1944-45, sometimes maligned but often quite effective when carefully used as noted in many, many detailed accounts. Perhaps it was skipped because it was a revision of the British 6 pounder and not designed by Barnes men? Yet, it is an example of the issues caused by the pre war budget minders forcing the Army into desperate choices as explained later – and the using arms who decided to adopt it almost at the last minute, late in 1943. Until a weapon is adopted by the Army ammunition cannot be developed – it costs too much money and time to do so.
Most of the book is positive and ignores failures, posed from the viewpoint of a proud designer not an actual user. Yet those failures illustrate the issues Ordnance had to deal with during the war. The U.S. invented the bazooka as the 2.36-inch model in 1942 yet the Germans fielded the more powerful 8.8-cm (88mm) model in 1944; and the U.S. did not get the 3.5-inch (90mm) into production-ready state until the war was ended. This was caused by offloading development onto people who went out for a “super rocket launcher” that had no place in the war. All too often, some excited designers did indeed get ahead of themselves when it came to what worked but was a bit too much (and ultimately impractical for the Army at the time). The inability to develop hollow-charge (HEAT) ammo for cannon and howitzers to reach its minimum potential (twice the caliber in penetration or better) was common for all countries including the U.S. The 105mm howitzer round was pretty good and while disparaged by all and sundry even the 75mm howitzer’s shell could (and did) take out medium armor.
Barnes refers to the M3 and M5 light tank as "excellent" when the tanker's epithet would have been "tin plated coffin with a pea-shooter". Here we have an issue with comparing numbers such as armor thickness and penetration power of guns to facts; it is common to think they were butchered such as in Africa when in fact they fought well enough, flaws and all. But they were not the weapons the tankers wanted (nor deserved), and thus tanker’s complaints were valid. And, yes, they were not seen as a prime resource for fighting German tanks and hence reverted to recon and infantry support roles. Where they continued to meet and destroy German armor (but also be destroyed). Any German field commander would have loved to have a battalion of M5s on hand chasing down and chewing up U.S. troops; the contribution of the men in the light tanks in Europe in 1944 and 1945 is all too often belittled by the “number nerds” who toss the light tanks off as useless. They were anything but useless.
Why were the M10, M18, and M36 designed as “Gun Motor Carriages” and not tanks? Because they were developed for the tank destroyer forces and the very bigoted officers who held the most sway on development wanted them to be nothing but “motorized antitank guns”. If they had been designed as tanks that would have invalidated Tank Destroyer Doctrine immediately. And yet, in the end, the men doing the fighting needed and wanted tanks, so they used them as tanks as much as they could, despite the open roof and lack of internal machine guns. It is claimed the gun motor carriages were cheaper than tanks (a specious argument given price varied by manufacturer and ultimately depended more on quantities produced not some arbitrary raw number) but to produce the gun motor carriages for a specialist role that was neither tank nor artillery (albeit they were used for both) was a costly thing to do.
The failure to develop a better light tank in time is not mentioned even though the T7 light tank with a 57-mm gun was ready in mid-1942 and could have been in the field around 1943 (the Armored Forces botched that one). The M24 was a nice tank but too late simply because development came too late because development had been stunted badly by congress and it’s miserly pre-1941 budget.
There are errors: The design of the M24 began in 1943, not 1945. The 76-mm gun could hardly penetrate the "...heaviest German tank armor." But it could penetrate a lot of armor and the myth that all German tanks were Tigers and Panthers is one of those fantasies of the war pursued by people who are glorifying the war not understanding it (most German armor was medium or lighter), let alone the myth that they were always met head-on is ridiculous. The 90-mm gun was not optimized for anti-tank use and hence had the same issues with dealing with the frontal armor of the Panther (though it could handle the Tiger) and yet was better at that than many other guns. The tendency to adapt anti-aircraft guns for anti-tank guns was common and is where Germany got its 88s and the 128mm. The U.S. found it did not need a lot of 90mms (the homeland was not threatened and what it produced was enough for its needs); there was never the demand for a higher altitude version and hence nothing like the 8.8cm FLAK 41 was developed which led to the 8.8cm Kwk43 and Pak43s; yet Ordnance built their own versions of hot 90mm for tank use.
I missed the boat in my original review failing to detail how the Army’s main issue was the budget provided by Congress and politicians from 1920 through 1940. They starved the Army; the U.S. was peaceful and they had no interest in making it a military country and as such kept the Army small (and starved the air forces and Navy as well but not as badly). This crippled development; while the Soviets started building a modern Army in 1930 complete with investment in tank forces and tank arsenals; the Germans in 1934 or so; and British in 1934 or so; the U.S. politicians did not begin serious spending on the Army until 1941. Before then, the budget was all about “beans, bullets, and bayonets” and of course bodes to wield them. The Army had to struggle with what it had and put to field what was practical not what was best. Thus, for example, the recoilless rifles (used by the Germans in 1940) did not arrive in U.S. use until 1945. And yet a U.S. officer bult the first recoilless rifle to be used way back around 1916.
Indeed, a brief little discussion on how the U.S. produced what it did based on budget would have opened many eyes. The Soviets produced so many thousand T34s for example, more than the U.S. – and in the U.S. the budget people were always saying, “You don’t need any more, stop building them!” As mentioned, the number of 90mm AA guns the U.S. produced was not based on manufacturing capacity but because they didn’t need more.
Thus - there is a lot of information and many details many people will never have heard before. There are also many missing details concerning the Ordnance Department struggles to get things done in a very brief time frame thanks to how Congress had refused to let them do anything earlier. Dig into that deeper and you might find it nauseating the way people played games that hindered the U.S. Army in its job of helping beat the Germans. And sometimes couldn't put 2 and 2 together to get the right answer. But, they were human after all, and people do make mistakes.
In my original review I argued that “If you want a politics free book you will not get it in this once, not unless you shut your eyes and remain ignorant . . .” but that is wrong. If this was a political book, Barnes might have ripped the budget mongers of the 1920s and 1930s a new sphincter for leaving the Army (and U.S. military as a whole) in such a bad situation as they did when war broke out. But, Barnes had more class than I do.
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Reviewed in the United States on September 19, 2015
★★★★★ 5
Good content, very small print and photos
Format: Paperback
Get a magnifying glass… the print is tiny. They must have made this book to be a large hard cover because both the print and the photos are so small in paperback. Content looks decent. It’s a gift for my grandson who will probably spend more time with the photos than the reading anyway and his eyesight is better than mine. :D
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Reviewed in the United States on December 16, 2025
★★★★★ 4
Printing not up to standards.
Format: Paperback
Printing and pics not up to par.I gifted this book to a coworker and he was not as picky as I.
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Reviewed in the United States on March 8, 2020
★★★★★ 5
Excellent resource
Format: Paperback
Purchased for my teenage son's history research project. Nice compilation, good information and well illustrated.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 29, 2025